Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) - Trees & Shrubs

What are your views on Leyland cypress?

It has its value as a windbreak, especially in exposed rural gardens but is not a plant for urban areas.

There are many rural sites, especially in upland areas, where it would be almost impossible to establish a garden without the shelter given by Leyland cypress. But they must be kept trimmed at least twice a year. It is the fastest growing tree in Britain and because it has only existed for about one hundred years, no-one knows its full potential. Personally, I wouldn't necessarily outlaw it anywhere because, kept confined and clipped, it makes a marvellous hedge; but not everyone is as willing as I am to do the necessary work and the greatest problems arise when it has been planted with the best of intentions in an urban garden and a later owner then neglects it.

What are the best shrubs for autumn colour?

Among many types in our catalogue with attractive autumn foliage, I particularly recommend some of the species in the following genera: Acer; Berberis; Cornus; Cotinus; Cotoneaster; Rhus; Ribes; Stephanandra; Viburnum

What attractive shrubs will grow in a shady border?

Try to choose shrubs that naturally grow in woodland situations. The following are some suggestions from our catalogue (E = evergreen; a = needs acidic soil): E Aucuba japonica; E A Camellia; E Daphne laureola; E Euonymus fortunei; E Fatsia japonica; E Ilex altaclarensis; E Ilex aquifolium; E Lonicera nitida; E Mahonia aquifolium; E Osmanthus heterophyllus; E Phillyrea decora; E Prunus laurocerasus; E A Rhododendron; D Ribes alpinum; E Skimmia japonica; E Viburnum davidii

What single shrub do you recommend as a feature for all year interest in a small garden?

The following are some suggestions from our catalogue: Cornus alba; Elaeagnus pungens 'Maculata'; Hamamelis mollis; Ilex altaclarensis; Ilex altaclarensis;

Mahonia 'Charity'; Salix fargesii

Features to consider are: evergreen foliage, variegated evergreen foliage, (with or without any conspicuous flowers), moderate attractiveness in summer but something quite stunning in winter when very little else has colour, a pervading and alluring scent or a particularly attractive overall shape or leaf form. Consider too the rate of growth and ultimate size of the plant you have chosen. If the garden is small, then this feature plant may represent a major part of your capital investment and although your chosen subject may be slow growing, it could be worth buying a fairly well-grown specimen to make an immediate impact. Check carefully the ultimate size and that the specimen won't outgrow its allotted position.

What climbers are suitable for a north-facing wall?

Depending on what features appeal to you, possibilities are Hydrangea petiolaris , some types of Clematis , Parthenocissus and Hedera (ivy).

A north wall, is not as harsh an environment as you might as it is protected from rapid thawing because it doesn't receive any early morning winter sun. There are only two really good flowering climbers that can be widely recommended for north walls; the deciduous climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea petiolaris is a self-clinging climber with large green leaves and large clusters of greenish white flowers in June. It is a vigorous plant, attractive enough when in flower but rather dismal in winter when it is reminiscent of a tangle of old rope. Much more dramatic in flower, but equally nondescript in winter, are the large flowered hybrid clematis which always produce their best colour when facing north. If the absence of attractive flowers is no matter of concern, the various species of Parthenocissus certainly thrive when facing north and more than make up for the lack of bloom with their autumn colours. P. quinquefolia, is the Virginia Creeper and P. tricuspidata, the Boston Ivy. Both are self clinging, as is the even more beautiful P. henryana, but if you have a wall with old bricks and mortar and are concerned about damage that might result from a self-clinging plant, try P. inserta which has many of the features of its relatives but needs a wire support as it climbs by tendrils. Although I would never recommend ivy for old walls, it is perfectly safe on sound, modern bricks and mortar and there are now dozens of very attractively leafed forms.

Are there any evergreen climbers to give interest all year round and also have attractive flowers?

A relative of the hydrangeas, Decumaria sinensis , has gloriously perfumed green and white flowers in the spring. Holboellia coriacea is hardy but needs sun to flower, when it produces rather pretty little green, white and purple blooms in spring. Trachelospermum jasminoides , the star jasmine, has richly scented, jasmine like white flowers in late summer. Some of the evergreen honeysuckles have attractive flowers - Lonicera japonica is probably the best. Pileostegia viburnoides is a hardy but slow growing self-clinging climber with creamy-white flowers in late summer, while there are a few more or less evergreen members of groups that are usually thought of as deciduous; Rubus henryi is an evergreen bramble with typical pink summer flowers, while many climbing rose s are evergreen in most years.

What conditions do dwarf conifers they need and what varieties do you recommend

Although most prefer a well drained, peaty soil, they will grow perfectly satisfactorily in all except the most alkaline conditions; and even there, with the aid of sequestered iron , many will survive. Most also prefer a sunny situation although they may be browned by exposure to cold wind. Many dwarf conifers make excellent subjects for growing in pots and tubs where a John Innes No. 3 potting compost suits them ideally. The following are the principal genera and a range of varieties is available in our catalogue :

Firs ( Abies ); Cedars ( Cedrus ); Cypresses ( Chamaecyparis ); Junipers ( Juniperus ); Spruces ( Picea ); Pines ( Pinus ); Yews ( Taxus ); Red Cedars ( Thuja )

Is it possible to move a mature shrub without harming it?

Yes, but you should do it in late autumn or early spring with the minimum of root disturbance, with as much soil as possible still adhering and after very thorough watering.

A mature large shrub will, of course, present more of a problem than a mature small one, whilst the facility of moving any big plant is influenced by the position in which it is growing, by the soil type and by the proximity of other plants (trees and shrubs especially). The species of plant concerned is also important, for deep rooted shrubs will present more difficulties than shallowly rooted ones and evergreens more problems than deciduous types. A deciduous plant may be moved any time during its dormant, leafless period unless the ground is likely to be frozen - October or March are normally safe. Evergreens present an additional complication because they retain their leaves through the winter and will thus continue to lose water through them at a time when the roots may be unable to replenish it. For this reason, I believe that moving them in March or April, before the new season's growth has started, is the best plan. Well in advance of the operation, water the plant and the surrounding soil very thoroughly. Prepare the new hole, then dig around, but well away from the plant Place hessian sacking, or, with a large plant, wire netting underneath to form a large bag-like structure tied at the top and holding soil and roots together. Over a short distance the shrub can be dragged. Firm in very thoroughly, water very thoroughly (and continue to do so until the plant is well established) and ensure that you haven't left a hollow in the soil at the base of the stem where water might accumulate.

When should I prune my garden shrubs?

If the plant really does need pruning (and not all do), be guided by the time of flowering. Some shrubs produce their flowers on wood produced in the previous year and tend to be in bloom early in the season, before the current year's shoots have developed. These may be pruned as soon as the flowers fade. Shrubs that flower on wood of the current year may be pruned between late autumn and the end of February, the latter being preferable. If you follow this rule of thumb, you are unlikely to do very much harm and are unlikely to prune away all the next crop of flower buds.

Pruning is done to improve the growth of certain types of plant and it does this in several ways. Pruning may remove dead or diseased wood, it may remove branches and shoots that have become so tangled together as to restrict the penetration of light and air into the plant, it may remove dead flowering shoots, either to prevent them from becoming diseased or simply to improve the appearance of the plant and it may, by removing some growth, stimulate the production of new leafy or flowering shoots to enhance the form or attractiveness of the plant as a whole.

When, therefore, should pruning be carried out? The best guide to the time of pruning is the time of flowering. Some shrubs produce their flowers on wood produced in the previous year and tend to be in bloom early in the season, before the current year's shoots have developed. These may be pruned as soon as the flowers fade. Shrubs that flower on wood of the current year may be pruned between late autumn and the end of February, the latter being preferable. If you follow this rule of thumb, you are unlikely to do very much harm and are unlikely to prune away all the next crop of flower buds.

How and when should I prune my clematis?

The simplest maxim is to prune in mid-spring; and the later in the year that the variety flowers, the harder should it be pruned.

Clematis can be divided into three groups on the basis of the pruning system to be adopted. The first group comprises the early flowering species alpina, macropetala and their varieties and montana and its varieties. These should be pruned immediately after flowering simply to remove dead shoots and to keep the plant within its allotted space. The second group comprises the early, large flowered varieties such as Dr Ruppel, Nelly Moser, Elsa Spaeth, Etoile de Paris, Mrs Cholmondeley, Niobe and The President, together with the Jackmanii group, and the mid-season large flowered varieties such as Beauty of Richmond, Duchess of Sutherland, Marie Boisselot (also known as Madame Le Coultre) and W. E. Gladstone. These should have dead or feeble shoots cut out in February or March and other shoots cut back to a pair of strong buds. The final clematis group includes the viticella varieties and all the late flowering species such as campaniflora, flammula, orientalis, rehderiana, tangutica, and texensis. These should also be pruned in February or March, but much harder, with all the previous season's growth cut back to a strong pair of buds just above the base.

Is it possible to use ground cover shrubs to suppress weed growth?

Yes but not many have dense enough growth to be really effective. From our catalogue, try some of the low species of Juniperus, Cotoneaster, Cytisus, Vinca, Pachysandra terminalis, Hypericum, Erica, Rubus and Rosa.

The basic requirements for an efficient weed suppressing plant are that it should compete with the weeds for nutrient, moisture and light, especially light. So the ground cover plant need not be totally prostrate and many of the best, such as some of the spreading junipers, work more on the umbrella principle of casting shade than actually smothering. Others that fall into this category include several species of cotoneaster, some of the brooms such as Cytisus kewensis and the hypericums. Of more smothering habit are the low growing roses like Rosa nitida, the prostrate bramble, Rubus tricolor, heathers, Pachysandra terminalis and the very useful vincas. Be careful that the position where plants are used for weed smothering isn't one where they can themselves become a menace and invade beds and borders.

Some of the branches on my red rhododendron have purple flowers.

The flowers are those of the rootstock variety, probably Rhododendron ponticum, onto which your plant has been grafted. They should be cut out.

Many varieties of rhododendron are grafted onto rootstocks of the familiar semi-wild species, Rhododendron ponticum and from time to time a shoot of this variety will make its appearance on your variety. As with rose suckers, this shoot should be taken out, although, in the case of rhododendrons, it is better pulled away from the base rather than cut off. With other types of tree and shrub too, these suckers or basal shoots must be cut out. Many trees and shrubs are grafted in this way because the named variety (especially if it is a hybrid) may not grow as vigorously on its own roots as a wild species. Equally important from a commercial standpoint, is that by grafting shoots of a variety onto already rooted plants of a widely available, fast growing and inexpensive variety, a nurseryman can have available a large number of plants very much more quickly that he could if he had to wait until they grew to a comparable size on their own roots.

Every time that I plant clematis in my garden, they grow for a couple of years and then die.

The problem is known as clematis wilt and despite a good deal of study, no-one is very sure what causes it. Cut it back to a good pair of buds or shoots close to ground level and drench the soil around thoroughly with a spray strength mix of systemic fungicide. Give the plant a generous dose of bone meal raked into the soil and then wait and see. If the treatment has no effect, then try with a new plant but replace the soil with fresh from a part of the garden well away from any other clematis and plant the new plant to twice the depth shown by the soil mark on its stem.

When trees and shrubs are growing in a lawn, should the grass be allowed to grow right up to the base of the trunk

Not for young trees but to slow down the growth of mature trees, this is a very good idea.

In the formative years, grass growing close to the base of a tree or shrub will provide quite serious competition in respect of water and nutrients. Until the tree or shrub is well established therefore, (after about 5 years with apples), a circular area of turf of about 1m in diameter should be removed from around the base. Generally speaking, no harm will result from growing small, relatively undemanding plants such as small bulbs within this circle. Once a tree is well established, however, the grass may safely be allowed to grow up to the base of the trunk and, indeed, if a tree is growing unacceptably vigorously, grassing up to its base will frequently achieve the objective of slowing down its overall growth.

How far away from a building is it safe to plant a tree?

This depends on the type of tree and the type of soil. Poplars and willows on heavy, clay soils can cause serious damage to the foundations. In general, my rule of thumb is no closer than one and half times the tree's ultimate height.

Threats to buildings take several forms - the roots may grow into and block drains; roots may grow into and damage foundations or may damage foundations indirectly by causing expansion of the surrounding soil; and the branches and foliage may obstruct light from windows. Also, fallen leaves may obstruct gutters and drains, sticky honeydew from leaves may drip onto paths or paintwork, and flowers and shrubs, which may be desirable near to the house, will not flourish beneath a tree. Above all therefore, don't plant any other than very small species of poplars or willows anywhere close to a house although they make superb ornamental trees in larger gardens. And always check the ultimate height of any tree that you buy.

When is the best time of year to plant a tree?

We supply trees in containers and these can be planted at any time of the year although establishment is generally best in autumn or early spring. Bare rooted trees will only be supplied in the winter dormant season and should be planted promptly on receipt.

How large a tree can be planted with a good chance that it will survive?

The largest trees that we supply can readily be planted by any competent gardener.

The supply and planting of really large, mature trees, is a specialist job requiring specialist equipment. Above all, I don't recommend trying to move large trees yourself and transplant them. Not only are you likely to cause yourself injury, the tree will be most unlikely to survive. Large trees that are supplied professionally are grown specifically to be lifted and moved.

Is it true that some trees poison the ground and prevent other plants from being grown nearby

No. When this appears to be happening, it is almost invariably because a large trees or shrub has drained the soil of water and nutrients.

There are very few genuine instances of one species of plant actually producing a poison or other substance that has an adverse effect on other types of plant growing nearby. The best known example is that of the walnut tree, which certainly does produce a chemical known as juglone. This substance is manufactured in the leaves and, when washed into the soil, can have retarding effects on other plant life and may, at least in part, offer an explanation of the poor growth exhibited by other vegetation in the vicinity. But, it is an exception and in most other instances, I am sure that the explanation is the more straightforward one of competition for nutrients and water. Look closely at the soil beneath a privet hedge and I am certain that you will be able to see part of the reason why privet is so often blamed for the poor performance of plants nearby. The ground, even in wet winter weather, is dry; in summer it is really parched and dusty.

What are the best trees to give attractive autumn colour?

We can't guarantee to have all of my recommendations available at any one time so do bear in mind that many other trees also display some attractive autumn leaf colours. And remember too that the colours in some years will e better than others. The heights given are those to be expected on good soils after 10 and 20 years.

• Acer capillipes 7m. - 13m.
• Acer griseum 3m. - 5m.
• Acer palmatum 'Osakazuki' 2m. - 5m.
• Acer platanoides 'Schwedleri' 8m.-13m.
• Acer rubrum 8m. - 12m.
• Amelanchier lamarckii 6m. - 9m.
• Betula costata 8m. - 12m.
• Betula jacquemontii 8m. - 12m.
• Crataegus prunifolia 3m. - 5m.
• Liquidamber styraciflua 5m. - 12m.
• Liriodendron tulipifera 8m. - 16m.
• Malus florentina 6m. - 9m.
• Parrotia persica 4m. - 7m.
• Prunus sargentii 5m.- 9m.
• Quercus rubra 10m.- 5m.
• Sorbus 'Joseph Rock' 6m.- 12m.
• Sorbus commixta 6m.- 9m.
• Stewartia pseudocamellia 5m. - 9m.

Don't forget that leaf colouration isn't the only attractive autumn tree feature. Many also have extremely ornamental fruits and in the following list are a few trees especially appealing in this respect and suitable for small gardens.

• Arbutus unedo
• Cercis siliquastrum
• Gleditsia triacanthos
• Malus 'Golden Hornet'
• Malus 'John Downie'
• Prunus serotina
• Sorbus 'Joseph Rock'
• Sorbus vilmorinii

What attractive flowering trees can be suggested for a fairly small garden?

The following are among my personal favourites:

Amelanchier lamarckii. 4m.- 6m. One of the most perfect small garden trees, with a delicate tracery of winter twigs, delightful small white flowers in spring, soft green foliage in summer and rich autumn leaf colours and fruit.

Cercis siliquastrum (Judas tree) 3m.- 5m. A rounded or drooping tree with bright pink, broom-like flowers in late Spring.

Eucryphia nymansensis 'Nymansay' 5m.- 9m. Could be described as a large, many stemmed shrub, but a glorious evergreen plant, given shelter from cold wind. It will take several years to flower but is worth the wait, with a mass of large, single white flowers in late summer.

Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna Broom) 5m.- 7m. A tree-sized broom is unusual to many people but this plant with its green shoots and masses of yellow flowers in late summer should be planted more widely.

Laburnum watereri (Voss's laburnum) 7m.-8m. By far the best laburnum, with masses of very long, pendulous flower heads. Do remember, however, that laburnums are poisonous and are best avoided where young children could have access to them.

Magnolia soulangiana 2m.- 3m. Undoubtedly the best, widely available magnolia. A spreading tree with large, almost tulip shaped flowers, white, with varying amounts of purple, depending on the variety.

Malus (flowering crabs). The main drawback to the crabs is that they suffer from the same diseases as apples - scab, canker and mildew, which can disfigure them if not carefully controlled. Nonetheless, when in flower in spring or fruit in the autumn, they can be very beautiful. The following are among the best for blossom:

'John Downie'. 5m.- 8m. White flowers; arguably the best for crab apple jelly.

'Profusion'. 3m.- 5m. Deep red flowers, coppery red leaves. Prunus (flowering cherries)

The following selection is intended to give a range of flowering times and although I don't imagine that they would all be planted in one garden, a concerted effort by a small neighbourhood, in which each gardener chose one variety, could give an extended blossom period for the benefit of all. The flowering times will vary slightly from season to season, although the order will be fairly constant.

Prunus subhirtella 'Autumnalis' (Winter flowering cherry) 3m.- 5m. (October-April). This tree is rather large and spreading for a small garden, but is quite invaluable for its flowering period. There is a flush of blossom after the leaves fall and again before the buds burst in spring, with irregular flowering through the winter (least in very cold years); twigs cut at any time during the winter can be relied on to produce flowers in the house.

Prunus sargentii 5m.- 9m. (Late March). Deep pink, single flowers, excellent autumn colour and rich brown bark.

Prunus hillieri 'Spire' 6m.- 7m. (Late March). Single, pink flowers in large masses on a compact upright tree. This variety is becoming very popular and has been called (admittedly by its originators), 'possibly the best small street tree raised this century'.

Japanese cherry 'Shirotae' 4m.- 5m. (Early April). Single or semi-double, pure white flowers on spreading or drooping branches.

Japanese cherry 'Kiku-shidare Sakura' (sometimes called 'Cheal's Weeping') 2m.- 3m. (Early April) Deep pink double flowers on upward arching and then weeping branches.

Japanese cherry 'Hokusai' 5m.- 6m. (mid-April). Pale pink, semi-double flowers; fast growing in its early years, but slows down later. Good autumn colour, earlier and smaller than 'Kanzan' which has unfortunately replaced it in popularity.

Japanese cherry 'Amanogawa' 5m.- 7m. (Late April). Pale pink, semi-double flowers; a markedly upright tree, especially good for small gardens.

Japanese cherry 'Pink Perfection' 5m.- 6m. (Early May). Deep pink double flowers, fading to almost white on a compact, fairly upright tree.

Japanese cherry 'Shirofugen' 5m.- 8m. (mid-May). Large double white flowers on a fairly upright, moderately large tree, but valuable for its late flowering.

What is the best species to produce a reasonably quick-growing and fairly tall screen along the boundary of the garden?

My recommendations are beech, hawthorn, Lawson cypress, thuja and yew.

There are several requirements for a plant to be used for screening. It must give cover all year round, it must not grow unacceptably tall, it must grow fairly quickly, not require a great deal of attention, not adversely affect other parts of the garden (and, by implication, not spread too widely beyond its allotted line) and, hopefully, be reasonably attractive. I must say, therefore, that no plant known to me fulfils all of these criteria. Inevitably, there must be a compromise.

Beech - beautiful and with appealing colour variation, the dead brown leaves in winter contrasting with the soft pale green in spring and darker green in summer. But not very fast growing and better in gardens for low hedges.

Hawthorn - sometimes sold as Quickthorn, emphasising its fairly rapid growth, but, although dense, it never forms a very tall hedge satisfactorily.

Holly - fairly slow growing, certainly impenetrable but although good for a low hedge, the wait for a tall screen is just too long.

Laurel - fairly slow growing and, with its large leaves, a nightmare to clip if it isn't to appear unsightly.

Lawson cypress - a very wide range of varieties, some much better as hedging plants than others. Fast growing, dense, some very attractive (especially the golden forms which, unfortunately, are not the fastest growers).

Monterey cypress (macrocarpa) - fast growing, dense and dismal, with a marked tendency to look bare and twiggy as it ages. Superseded by other cypresses.

Privet - low, slow and dull. Not a suitable subject for a hedge of any sort, (although the golden form is not be scorned as a specimen shrub).

Rhododendron ponticum - only suitable for acid soils and a with loose spreading habit, but useful for a hedge in deeply shaded areas.

Thuja - underrated by comparison with cypresses but dense, fast growing, with very pleasantly scented foliage.

Yew - not as slow growing as many people imagine, but, as with holly, still much too slow for present purposes.

What hedging plant do you recommend for a sea-side situation, subject to wind and salt spray?

Depending on where you live, possibilities are Olearia, Fuchsia, Euonymus japonicus and Tamarix.

Sea-side gardening isn't easy because many of the familiar garden plants grown inland simply cannot tolerate the combination of exposure and salt. Nonetheless, there are some compensations for many coastal localities do have a more mild or, at least, more equable climate. With so much more limited a choice in general, it is small wonder that the range of plants suitable for hedging is correspondingly restricted. In a really mild coastal area, there is no more splendid sight than a Fuchsia magellanica hedge in full flower, but only gardeners in the extreme south and west of Britain will be able to grow this successfully. The most generally satisfactory coastal hedging plants are escallonias, especially E. macrantha, followed by olearias such as O. hastii . Among others worth trying are Euonymus japonicus , and, for a rough boundary rather than a hedge, Tamarix . Quite commonly, cypresses are recommended for seaside gardens, but they brown too readily to be really effective as hedges. For a large windbreak rather than a hedge, a maritime pine such as Pinus nigra, or, in milder areas, P. pinaster or P.radiata makes a good choice.

Is it true that I must obtain permission before I may cut down a tree in my garden?

Yes, or no; it depends on where you live, how large the tree is, what type of tree it is, and if it is dead. Check with your local authority.

Generally speaking, you may cut down a dead, dying or dangerous tree without asking anyone. If the tree is alive and well, it may have one of two types of legal protection. A fine specimen tree may be protected by a Tree Preservation Order, taken out by a local authority whose permission will be needed before the tree may be pruned, let alone felled. You may be unaware of an existing preservation order on one of your trees, so it is wise to check. If an authority proposes to take out a new preservation order, however, they will inform you of this. Even if your tree isn't protected individually, it will automatically acquire protection if you live in a designated Conservation Area (England and Wales) and if it has a trunk diameter of more than 7.5 cm at a height of 1.5 m above ground level. In such circumstances, you are obliged to inform the local authority of your intentions and obtain their permission. If they agree to your actions, they may still require you to replace any trees that enjoy legal protection.

How can I dispose of a tree stump in the garden; easily and safely

If it is small, you may be able to dig out yourself. If not, then you will need a professional tree contractor with stump grinding equipment. Stumps of hardwood (non-coniferous) trees must always be removed as they provide the means for honey fungus to enter the soil.

If all else fails, or you feel unable to afford the expense, try turning a conifer stump to good purpose by growing ground cover and climbing plants over it; low-growing ground cover roses , the variegated bramble, Rubus tricolor or some of the more vigorous clematis look excellent when allowed free rein in this way.

My sumach tree produces suckers all over the lawn. What can be done about this

Regular mowing will limit their growth but they can't be eradicated. Rhus typhina , the sumac, has some of the most spectacular autumn colour of any small tree. But they are very prone to suckering.

What is the best way and when is the best time of year to clip my hedge

In general, try not to clip hedges before late May or after mid-October in order to avoid disturbing nesting birds and allowing frost damage to cut twigs.

If you have a long hedge and little time to devote to it, one annual clipping may be all that can be managed, but this should not be done until the season's growth has finished. Most garden hedges will thrive best and retain their attractiveness with two annual clippings, one in July and one in October. The flowering hedges such as roses, berberis, olearia or fuchsia are best pruned fairly hard once a year after the flowers have faded. Newly planted hedges generally benefit from slight shortening of the longer shoots in order to encourage bushiness. When a hedge has become overgrown through neglect, it should be cut back hard into the old wood early in the season - the beginning of April is ideal. New growth will then start almost immediately.

What are the best species to choose for dwarf hedges, such as those traditionally used around herb gardens

Much the best choice is box although in some areas, a dieback disease has affected some varieties.

The essential features of a dwarf hedge are that it should be small leaved, slow growing and either naturally low growing or responsive to being maintained in miniature form. The best choice as a dwarf hedge is that very adaptable plant, box, of which there are many dwarf forms well suited to this purpose such as Buxus sempervirens suffruticosa. Around a herb garden rosemary can, with care, be kept as a low growing hedge but perhaps best of all is lavender . Choose one of the forms known as nana, for these are inherently lower growing. Cut back the dead flower shoots after flowering and gently perform any necessary shaping at the same time. Other good plants for dwarf hedges are lavender cotton, (Santolina chamaecyparis corsica), Cotoneaster microphyllus , Hebe cupressoides, Berberis buxifolia nana , and many dwarf ericas and callunas.